What drywall to use in a garage

Drywall is the most commonly used material for wall coverings in garages. Drywall has two main functions, firstly to create a flat surface upon which paint can be added later, and secondly, drywall adds significant structural support to framed walls.

Drywall is a common choice for framing the walls of a garage because; it offers superior durability and resistance to moisture compared with other materials such as plywood. Drywall’s resistance to water penetration makes it very durable in high humidity conditions like those present in garages, where cars produce large amounts of moisture through perspiration. The ability to stand up to humidity makes drywall an excellent choice for garage walls.

What drywall to use in a garage, Zazzy Home

When choosing the type of drywall that is right for your garage, you should consider its location- both what will be located near it and how extreme the climate will be. If the interior walls are exposed to high humidity or moisture conditions, a substrate material other than standard gypsum board can be used instead of drywall. There are two main alternatives.

One alternative is durock cement boards made by USG Corporation. These cement boards consist of a water-resistant gypsum plaster core sandwiched between layers of fiberglass mesh cloth and portland cement mortar. Durrock cement boards have superior water resistance and are more durable than standard drywall.

The other alternative is cement board like Hardiebacker- a brand of fiber cement board manufactured by James Hardie Company Ltd. Cement boards typically consist of an insulating core made up of wood or paper products sandwiched between outer layers of portland cement and sand.

This creates a strong, lightweight panel with high resistance to moisture, rot, fungus, mold, and mildew damage. In addition, both Hardiebacker and durrock cement boards share similar properties with standard drywall in that all three materials are smooth, flat surfaces to which paint adheres well.

It’s crucial when choosing drywall for use in a garage to consider both its strength and weight. The garage needs to support the weight of whatever will be hung on it, so you need drywall that can stand up to high humidity conditions and heavy objects like bicycles, power tools, and machinery. However, it’s also essential to consider the weight of the drywall material itself.

To properly reinforce a wall with standard drywall, you should attach metal corner beads at all seams where two sheets meet. This will add rigidity and strength to your wall, which is necessary when working with heavier objects like garage doors. In addition to reinforcing metal corner beads, you need to install metal wall anchors, which provide more strength than plastic wall fasteners.

You should also hang drywall using heavy-duty, self-drilling screws with washer heads- these will support the weight of ceiling storage racks and garage door tracks. Using screws with pan heads instead of washer heads will not help this type of load, and they can pull out or become loose over time.

When hanging drywall in a garage, you also want to use rust-resistant screws. Rust-resistant screws look better for longer and are less likely to corrode over time, which can affect the structural integrity of your walls. In addition, all screw holes must be filled with joint compound before applying paint, primer, or wallpaper because exposed screw heads will rust under high humidity conditions, and this will cause unsightly stains on your wall coverings later.

To attach drywall safely, you must ensure that all surfaces are clean before installing it. If your garage is dirty, wipe it down with a damp cloth to remove dirt and grease; don’t use abrasives like steel wool or sandpaper because doing so will damage the surface of your walls. You’ll want to make sure there’s no dust, dirt, or oil on your wall studs before hanging drywall too.

One person can install drywall, but two people will make the job easier; you must work together to avoid dropping sheets which could cause injuries. Before installing:

  1. Cut out any areas where wires or pipes run into your garage, like an electrical junction box or light switch.
  2. Leave enough room around these features so that you can easily access them once your walls are installed.
  3. In addition, leave an inch of space between the top of your finished wall and the bottom of ceiling joists so that ventilation is not restricted.

It’s also a good idea to install insulation behind the drywall in a garage because this helps prevent moisture from seeping into the insulation. If you don’t want to cut out sections of your wall, you can create an empty space behind it by nailing up fiberglass batts or styrofoam sheets without glue so that part of its surface is exposed. The drywall can be installed against this backing material instead of being screwed to studs spaced 24 inches apart.

When hanging drywall, ensure that edges are straight and flush with adjoining panels before screwing them together because creating a gap between panels will lead to cracks over time, reducing the strength of your wall. Also, since cement board is denser than standard drywall, screws should be used every 6 inches around the perimeter and 12 inches on inside corners- these holes should not be filled with joint compound during installation.

To protect your garage walls, it’s essential to cover them in plastic sheeting before painting or adhering to wallpaper. This step will prevent drywall mud from seeping through the seams when you are hanging drywall, and it will make clean-up easier because sheets can be removed without causing damage to surrounding areas.

It’s also vital to let drywall mud completely dry before you paint or adhere to wallpaper because doing so will make your garage look much better once it is complete; check the product label on any joint compound you’re using for specific instructions about how long this step should take.

Although painted drywall looks good, it is crucial to consider the long-term costs of this approach. All paint will begin to wear away after time and require periodic repainting; without adequate ventilation, fumes may also cause breathing problems.

Good luck!


Meet Jeff. For the last 10 years, he's been repairing and fixing problem homes - from leaky roofs to faulty wiring. He started blogging about his experiences as a way to help others who might be struggling with home repairs, and he's become something of an expert in the field. Jeff is always up for a challenge, and he loves sharing his tips and advice with others. When it comes to home repairs, Jeff knows what he's talking about. So if you're looking for some help and guidance, be sure to check out his latest guide!

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