Can you use drywall on ceilings?
Drywall is a term used to describe plasterboard sold in sheets, usually 4’x8′, made from gypsum. You can use drywall on ceilings, but it isn’t the best choice for two reasons: 1) It’s challenging to get smooth results and 2) If you cut any holes in the ceiling, such as recessed lighting or ventilation covers, there will be more of a chance that water can get into your house around these openings. This will compromise the strength of your ceiling and also create an environment where mold and mildew may grow.
This doesn’t mean drywall should never be used on a ceiling. If you’re an experienced DIYer and want to try using it, go ahead. Just consider the above issues before making your decision.
If you decide to use drywall, follow the manufacturer’s directions on which side of the sheet you should face down (if they differ between brands). I prefer to use plasterboard with a paper surface facing up so that dust and other particles don’t get caught on the paper surface. There are pros and cons to each choice, and both can give good results depending on how well they were installed:
Many specialized materials are available if you need extra strength or durability for your ceilings, such as resilient channels, ceiling tiles, and even steel panels. These will work great as long as they are well installed.
For ceilings, I usually recommend a wet-applied flashing membrane that is easy to use, durable, and provides a reliable starting point for taping drywall or other finishes.
Is ceiling drywall different from wall drywall?
Both ceiling drywall and wall drywall are made of gypsum plaster, but there are slight differences between the two. Ceiling drywall is thicker than wall drywall, making it easier to work with because one individual can handle sheets without assistance. In addition, it weighs more than wallboard, so it holds nails better and doesn’t sag as much over time. Ceiling panels may also have better-fireproofing qualities than standard rolls of gypsum board.
Ceiling drywall has a different “paper” or finishes on each side. One side has paper with tiny dots for the matte finish, and the other side has a shiny, aluminum paper that looks like metal for the metal finish. Ceiling drywall was developed for use in gyms and other large spaces that need acoustic treatment. It typically comes in 4×8-foot sheets and is made with a different “paper” on each side; one side has the white paper with tiny dots (the matte finish)
When installed, the ceiling is finished as a wall: light switch and electrical plates are attached to the boards using special clips, wallboard screws, or even small bolts. A T-bar grid can be used to mount lights for an added effect. Metal edge beads surrounding the perimeter of the room hide seams where adjacent boards meet up. TheT-bars or edge beads also hold down acoustical cloth, which damps sound and absorbs some of the reverberations that can cause echoes.
How do you install drywall on a ceiling by yourself?
This is an easy process that you can do independently if you have the right tools and some good instructions to follow.
Ceiling drywall is installed in much the same way as wallboard, though two people are needed to handle the thicker sheets. The panels have a paper strip on one side and a shiny aluminum strip on the other. When you’re hanging ceiling drywall, put these strips up against opposing walls or a bulkhead.
This makes it easy for painters and decorators to do their work without having to turn panels around. Also, if you’re installing metal edge beads, place them along the edge with the shiny aluminum strip going up against the wall.
Finally, when you install outlets or switches behind finished ceiling drywall panels, make sure they aren’t protruding from the surface by more than
You will need a ladder, drywall knife, drywall saw (for cutting), corner roller, tape measure, pencil, screwdriver, drill with 1/8″ bit for wire fishing.
Take the 4-foot pieces of drywall and cut them in half at a height that will fit on your ceiling. Next, place a piece of drywall against each joist with the wide side up, screw them in place using three screws per board. If you have fiberglass insulation between the posts, make sure you don’t puncture it while screwing down your panels.
You should be left with 3-4 foot sections to work with after cutting all eight pieces that correspond with each joist space. Measure along the length of one wall, over to another room’s adjoining wall, and then measure up from the floor for this section to ensure you’re leaving enough room for light fixtures and switches (roughly about 12 inches). Mark this drywall section with a pencil and run a stud finder along the wall to mark each stud.
Cut a line in between each of your marked studs using a circular saw or drywall knife, and this is where you’ll be inserting your wiring. Next, measure over from one cut to the next one and mark another line, leaving about an inch between cuts so that you have room for expansion when inserting wire between boards later on. Continue doing this until you’ve made it across your cut piece of drywall to create a channel for running your wiring.
Now take the 1/8″ drill bit and drill holes through all of your pencil-marked lines where you will be inserting wire later on. This part is essential as it will allow for room to fish wire down your channels and allow for necessary expansion as you’re running the wire.
Next, take the drywall saw and score all of the lines you made so that it’s easier to break them apart when finished cutting. Next, take a hammer and straight chisel and start breaking apart the separated pieces of drywall. It’s at this point where someone without much experience would recommend using a power tool such as a drywall saw, but with these instructions, we want to teach you how to do it properly by hand (it takes longer but is worth it if you can do it correctly). Start from one end and work your way through until they’re all completely broken apart (you might need someone else to help hold up.
Alternatives that can be used to drywall ceilings.
One of the most common products for doing this is a foam-based product called “Great Stuff.” It has been used as an alternative to traditional drywall on many different ceilings, from kitchen cabinets to patio covers. This product comes in a spray can and creates a kind of bubble effect when applied. The bubbles form an insulation layer above your ceiling, but you won’t have to deal with any deterioration since it doesn’t degrade over time like other foams or cellulose. In addition, since it’s made from polyurethane foam, this product will act as an insulator, so energy bills will be lower than they would if you had drywalled the ceiling traditionally.
Another alternative is to use a product called “Tiger Paw.” It has become trendy for several reasons:
- It’s easy to install.
- You can cut holes in it without compromising your ceiling.
- It doesn’t emit any poisonous fumes when you’re cutting or sanding it.
- There isn’t much chance of falling through the ceiling light fixture when you set recessed lighting into this material.
If you take your time installing either of these products, then your drywalled ceilings will look just as good as they would if you had used traditional drywall instead. The most important thing is that you must score and snap each panel before hanging it on the ceiling because this will give you the smoothest surface possible. Drywall is so widespread because, once it’s installed, it looks like a professional did it and provides the room with a polished look. Because of this, be sure to take your time when installing either of these products.
Suppose you’re not concerned with having the same smooth finish that drywall provides. In that case, these alternatives are worth considering, especially if you need to cut into your ceiling for ventilation or other reasons. Both will act as insulation against heat loss and can add years of life to an otherwise wasted space in your home.
If you’re not interested in installing either of these products, then consider adding a ceiling ventilator to your home. It will allow you to effectively ventilate the room and lower the temperature by as much as 15-20 degrees Fahrenheit, which can make all of the difference on those hot summer nights when sleep is hard enough to come by as it is.
This isn’t anything new but has been tried and tested for many years now and proven to be an effective alternative, especially if you plan to put a chair or other piece of furniture above your ceiling (the product used can support hundreds of pounds). So if this sounds like something that could benefit your family, why not take advantage of these great ideas?